Great article on quite possibly our favorite winery. Incidentally, this is a nice little window into the tensions that arise from wine snobs embracing and rejecting the passions and opinions that arise from evaluating wines. What one drinker thinks is amazing, another thinks is defective. So drink what you like!
When Mike & Randy Dunn asks you to come to St Helena for a vertical of Dunn Howell Mountain, you don’t check your schedule. You don’t ask your mom. You don’t ask your girlfriend if she wants to go, you ask her if she’s riding along with you. I don’t think I travelled the farthest–and don’t care. It was a brilliant excuse to go to Napa Valley.
1984 HOWELL MOUNTAIN Flat and round, textured into almost nothingness, little fruit, a bit past its prime, showing acid and alcohol among mostly tertiary bouquet.
1985 HOWELL MOUNTAIN Still fruity–though dense and headed pruney, balanced and intense, gobs of lovely earth and nuance. Still tannic and drinking perfectly–though prime.
Remember, these two wines have PERFECT winery provenance. You still see Dunns of this age here and about, but I would be highly sceptical of purchasing them ANYWHERE other than from source or–at WORST–second-owner.
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